Tuesday, September 23, 2008

Talbot Bay 4 Sept

Up at 6.30am to attack the Horizontal Falls at 7.00am. We can only have a maximum of 4 in each boat, including the driver so Jane and Brian will go after everyone else.

The Horizontal Falls are created by the enormous variation in tides - which are as much as 12 metres. The water level rising, or falling, in Talbot Bay (due to the tide) causes a major height difference with the water level in the inlet on the other side of the Falls.

As we approach the Falls Trippy decides that they are a bit strong so we will wait for 30 minutes and try again. We return and pick up Jane and Brian and cruise around Talbot Bay for a ‘look see’. Small seaplanes land hourly in the Bay bringing tourists in to ride the Falls. A number of yachts and cats are anchored in the Bay. We are finally starting to see other humans.

We head back to the Falls. You can visibly see the difference in height of the water masses and the water is pumping through the gap in the rock faces. Each tinny takes its turn to go through the gap. We are the last to go and by this stage we are really looking forward to it. Tim takes us through and holds the boat on the wave. The water gushing past us on either side of the boat is unbelievable.

We now find ourselves in the inlet and approach the second of the Falls. We are no longer allowed to go through this gap as there have been a number of accidents and the operators have agreed not to put people at risk. When you see the water gushing through you are very grateful that this decision has been made. As we go back to the boat Trippy is coming back with Jane and Brian so we turn around and go through again only this time Tim ‘fangs it’ and we go through much faster. Very exhilarating!!

We return for bacon and eggs and are joined at the back of the boat by a tawny nurse shark. Megan and Jennifer feed it fish frames, by hand. Obviously not a man-eater!

We spend a fair bit of time cruising between small groups of islands. The crew are acting very strangely, they are up to something.

We drop anchor at Crocodile Creek for a BBQ lunch. The crew pack a lunch of salads, steak, snags, fruit, wine, beer etc. We arrive at the landing and find a yacht anchored there. Don’t like this other humans thing, who do they think they are? They soon leave. This landing was built by the workers from Koolan Island, a nearby mining project, some years ago. They built a concrete landing complete with a barbeque, shade cover and stainless steel ladder that allows visitors easy entry to the rest area. Tourists often leave a memento of their visit - everything from jocks, thongs, boardies and cutting boards to boat buoys - hanging from the cover. The oldest dated object I saw was 1985. We left a can of Emu Export, empty of course. Surprisingly there were quite a few left in the bar fridge, courtesy of Brian.



The landing has a waterhole above it so we go for a swim before lunch – another climb but not a big one. This is our last stop before Broome so we make the most it.

We spend the afternoon catching up on map marking and journal writing while the crew start the big clean up for the next trip. Stephen and Sue have duelling whale footage on the screen and have their heads buried in Sue’s video manual. Dave joins them and we have a look at his photos on the big screen when suddenly we are confronted with a photo of Nathan in a mankini, laying on Dave’s bed. Dave’s fishing rod also appears in the picture. Let’s not go there!! Ah yes, that would account for the skulking around by the crew this morning. We also have a stubby holder tossing competition on the back deck and the crew can’t believe its taken 13 days to kick this off. It appears there is usually one per day on other trips. We are all thrilled when Jen has a big win and is voted the “Biggest Tosser”. Dave, trying to conceal a tear in his eye, hands over the gold medal while we stand for the presentation and sing the national anthem. I think everyone has forgotten the Olympics have been over for a week. Jen was magnanimous in victory. In her speech she thanked all: her parents, her junior coaches, her personal coach, even her main rival, Warren, who had spurred her on to great heights.



Megan cleaning and the boys version of cleaning


Trippy in complete control?? Good book?

All of us, including the crew, get dressed up for dinner this evening, sparkles and bling being tonight’s theme. At no stage do I remember bum crack being mentioned Tim. Your mother would be very disappointed Tim. As it is my turn to be head of the table, and with some prompting from Stephen, we have turns talking about our unforgettable memories of the holiday. The beauty of the Kimberley is high on the list but the camaraderie developed between all on board is a constant theme throughout the comments. Stephen’s particular memory is of Laurence: as we were mostly novice “casters”, there were many occasions when the lee-oo-ah landed up a tree, in the mud, on a rock or just generally “snagged”. When this happened, while most of us naturally reverted to the Aussie vernacular, “Ahh Shit”, Laurence, with his special upbringing, would simply exclaim “Ooohhh noooo”!!!! Forever more, wherever he is, if Stephen hears “Ooohhh noooo” – please use plum in mouth when saying this - he will naturally assume that someone’s lee-oo-ah is snagged.

All chocolate left on board is polished off before we head to bed. We cruise throughout the whole night.

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